Strolling to Navarrete - reprieve from withdrawl

September 27, 2017Strolling to Navarrete
My day started in Logrono, after a evening of sharing beer with Mike from New Zealand :  he tore up his feet pretty bad walking in sneakers,  even his blisters have blisters.  He is taking a couple of days to recuperate before he gets back to his 30 km per day.  Oy!

So this morning stared with the usual cafe con Leche and a tostada con Tomato.  Mid morning  break is on the picturesque banks of a resovoir with a cold Aquarius - a hydration beverage - not quite a sports drink- that is quite pleasant.  Not at all like those sports drinks that taste like I imagine camel.urine tastes like.

My American companions are out there somewhere and I have no doubt our paths will cross again.   I have arrived in Navarrete and will set out tomorrow for Najera, about 17 km away, or so the guide book claims.  I have made arrangements to have My background sent on ahead so we will see how that works out.  It seems to be an increasingle popular option here on the Camino for people who really want to enjoy the walk. 

And today for the first time,  I got to pet some kitties, I have been going through serious withdrawal.

I am really enjoying this outdoor cafe part of Spain.  I am going to pick up some food for the road tomorrow so I  can picnic on the way. 

After a supper of pasta with pesto and salad, another early night.

Logrono and a typical day

September 26, 2017
Logrono
Yesterday in Viana I managed to score a pair of sandals and another tshirt.  I met up with some Irish lads about my age on their annual walking trio on the Camino. I have to admit I took the bus yesterday and I am not sorry that I missed climbing both in and out of the ravine they call "mule killer ".   While in Viana, I did some sightseeing and visited the tomb of Caesre Borgia.  He was originally buried in the church but it was desiccated sometime in the 1600s so they buried him outside.

It was a 12km walk to Logrono this morning over easy terrain and I did not use my trekking poles.  I was somewhat faster.  Hmmmmmm.

The typical day for me begins around 6ish am when people start rustling.  They try to be quiet, but it doesn't help much.  Then it is breakfast :  usually bread, sometimes toast, and jam and coffee.  I have learned not to indulge in the fresh orange juice.

Then,  it's off like a herd of turtles.  Now if circumstances pemit,  about an hour or so later we stop for coffee con Leche and a snack (second breakfast) then start off again. 

Depending on the distance you want to cover,  you may or may stop for lunch or you can pick up sandwich makings from a Mercado for a picnic. Then you finally roll into the albergue and shower,  do any laundry you may have then go for a glass of wine.

If there is a communal supper we usually take part and if not we go hunting for a cafe.  The  pilgrims menu usually offers 3 courses : soup, salad or pasta and a main course: chicken, fish or pork and a light dessert. And wine is included, this whole repast is usually 8 - 11 euro.
 After that, usually bed time.  And no one has trouble falling asleep .

I miss you and the kitties, my Snuggy.  I suspect when I get home the kitties may be upset at having to share the bed with me again. 

Meanwhile back at the John

September 24, 2017
Meanwhile back at the John
Ah....Cafe con Leche in the morning.  Life is good surrounded by Pilgrims and backpacks. It was easy walking this morning, granted it was downhill and almost sunrise when I started.

I had supper last night with three blokes from Manchester:  a lawyer, Ceo type and one other.  All of them at various crossroads of their lives.  I did learn something interesting though:  most people if they quit the Camino (outside of injury) do so within the first 3 days.  Some don't even start and I can see that because when I got to St.Jean and the enormity of what I was attempting to do really started to sink in, it was a scary moment.

With regards to bathrooms:  overall it has not been a problem to me.  One thing is that no matter how much I hydrate - and I do, a lot - I don't seem to need to pee much.  As for the other,  as long as I avoid the beautiful and delicious freshly squeezed orange juice, prevelant with every breakfast, I will not be caught short.

As for the bathrooms, the one in the cafes and bars along the way have been clean but it is wise to carry along a small supply of toilet paper just in case.

Slouching Towards Santiago,

I am a turtle

September 23, 2017
I am a turtle
I have to come to terms with the fact that I am just not the swiftest walker in the world.  It was a hot day and I only made 12km.  That's ok, but next week I hope to do better I understood it takes that long to get my stride.  My goal is 17 km per day and thus far I haven't done too badly.  Oh, by the way, the meseta i's about 100 km in length, not 250.

On the physical front, I  am doing ok: my one blister is healing nicely.  And after a week in hiking boots my feet are like a baby 's bottom.  My knees hurt faintly after a couple of those murderous descents, but always better in the morning.

I  am so glad to get your updates,  I look forward to them every day.  And I really miss snuggling you.

Do you think you can update my blog with the letters I have been sending you? It seems that I have time to write you or update but not both.

Estella - a Shorter Day

September 22, 2017
Estella
It was a short day today as promised.  I arrived at the albergue around 1pm and the guys had a bed already booked for me.  Our Finnish nurse developed knee problems and we lost track of her at Pamplona.
The albergues vary:  most are mixed sleeping rooms.  The one today has 3 beds  and we have our own shower, which is a rare treat.   Some places have meals, the usual thing being a shared meal.  Or they offer a kitchen where you can prepare a meal with your own food.  Most place's have sheels and blankets, the private albergues anyway.  They are a couple of Euro more, but worth it.

The later in the day you arrive: you run the risk of the choice beds being gone, such as the lower bunks.  I have only had one upper so far and it served to remind me that I am no longer 13.

My sandals gave up the ghost today, so I need a new pair.  I really should have brought my walking sandals but that is hindsight.  And walking around town barefoot is not a option.  Forge on, I must. 

Lorca - a L O N G slog!

September 21, 2017
Lorca
Well, I did it.  I made the albergue at 7pm exactly.   I manage to get my laundry on and I am having a cervezo con Limon (large) while waiting for my paella.  Tomorrow WILL be a shorter day.
The rain let up and I stored away my poncho for the day and kept on.  I saw lots of olive trees and vinyards.  I also tasted some of the grapes :  but not too far in because of the mud.  Roman roads may be romantic, but they are hell to walk on. 

Tomorrow  is Saturday ,  so I must buy some groceries because everything is closed on Sundays in a Catholic country.  

Though, some one has informed me that the bars are open.  So what more do you need?

I think I need one more tshirt to keep me going while everything is in the wash.  Now I have jettisoned my sleeping bag (I

haven't needed it since I got here) I have space to carry it.

Going to try to get some sleep no.

A short walk to Pamploma - How to communicate better

September 20, 2017
A short walk to Pamploma
Guess who I ran into when I got back to the albergue?  The Three Amigos are together again! We continued our walk this morning (about 4km or so) and checked into a private albergue, I've had a shower, my laundry is being done and I have a European simple card with unlimited Internet for 20 euros.  So now I am connected wherever I go without being at the mercy of free WiFI.

I am  now sitting in a side walk cafe/bar enjoying pintxos and cervezo con Limon, and life is good.  Cervezo con Limon is a beverage that consists of beer and a shot of not too sweet lemonade.   It is nice, refreshing and doesn't go to my knees. 

It is now siesta time and every thing is closed, except to this place.

On a meteorological note, both yesterday and today have been sunny and clear.  What a relief!

Trinidad de Are - Realization about the scope of this project

September 19, 2017
Trinidad de Are

It was  another long day today.  That  much more because I was alone.  My American buddies went on ahead because they are faster walkers than I am and it would not have been fair to hold them back.  The Pension I was in last night did not have WIFI nor does the albergue I am in tonight, so the letters are piling up in the outbox. 

I have to remind myself that I am still in the mountains so there are a lot of ups and downs and the Camino varies between dirt, pavement, cement that looks like paving stones and sometimes so narrow it looks like a goat track clinging to the side of a hill. None of this makes for fast walking at the best of times and I didn't manage to arrive until after six.

I had a shower, sort of, and tomorrow I will be looking for accommodation earlier in the day so I can get some laundry done.  It should be easier nearer to Pamplona. 

Espinal to Zubria

September 18, 2017
Espinal to Zubria
Today was rough:  starting out in the rain, then uphill over the mountain (brutal  climb) and down the way down: and the trail was  shale outcroppings and slippery.  We covered 15 km but it seemed like more. We walked from 8am  to 5pm, and all the albergues were filled.  So we got a room in a pension. And another pilgrim meal, salad, chicken ( and fries) with wine and cake for a mere 10 Euro. 
I have a blister on my toe and I am sore.  Suprisingly , I have not had much trouble getting up in the am.  Granted,  I have had no late nights either.
I miss you so much, and the kitties too. It is a general consensus that having you drive the support vehicle and scout out the good bars might have been a good idea.

There was no WiFi so the message could not be sent until Sept. 20

Espinal to Zubria

September 18, 2017
Espinal to Zubria
Today was rough:  starting out in the rain, then uphill over the mountain (brutal  climb) and down the way down: and the trail was  shale outcroppings and slippery.  We covered 15 km but it seemed like more. We walked from 8am  to 5pm, and all the albergues were filled.  So we got a room in a pension. And another pilgrim meal, salad, chicken ( and fries) with wine and cake for a mere 10 Euro. 
I have a blister on my toe and I am sore.  Suprisingly , I have not had much trouble getting up in the am.  Granted,  I have had no late nights either.

I miss you so much, and the kitties too. It is a general consensus that having you drive the support vehicle and scout out the good bars might have been a good idea.

There was no WiFi so the message could not be sent until Sept. 20

What a Way to Start

On the road to Roncevalles
It is 2:30, I have been on the road since 8am and I have made it to Val Carlos - 7 km - All up hill.  This is not working as I had hoped.  It could only be worse on the Napoleon Route.  I may be short, and be of French heritage, somewhere along the line, but I don't have an army behind me and I  am not that much of a masochist.

I am not what language they speak here:  it could be French., Spanish and the outside chance of Basque.  Maybe all three at the same time which would make it something like Chiac.

 It is also pissing down rain.  I am taking a taxi the rest of the way to be reunited with my dry clothes . 

IT was a short day today

September 17, 2017
It was a short day today,  I met a couple of guys coming out of Roncevalles and got them to take a picture of me,  it should be posted on Facebook now.  That said, we walked together and we stopped around noon in Espino.  I had a nap. Now I am drinking wine with the rest of the group- 2 American men, a college student, and a Finnish psych nurse.

My victory today is that I carried my full back pack.  I jettisoned my pyjs today as I haven't used them anyway. 

September 16, 2017
On the road day 1
7am We were all woken at 5am by Jim croce on someone else's phone. Packed up ready to go.   I crashed at around 8pm last night when it all caught up with me and slept right through.   Feel much better now and more positive frame of mind.  The room was full last night and there were no overly audible snores.   This is a good thing., but I doubt if it would have disturbed me anyway.   Time to get mobile.

Note:

Due to the fact that there are only 24 hours in any day, and I have 15 of those hours are consumed with walking and my necessities, there is little time for blogging. I am having 'Daniel' catch up on my blog entries. These entries will comprise the content of the E-mails that I send to him. I am answering questions as I go along, but there is the inevitable delay in getting an answer. I am told that it will take a bit to catch up on the past week's entries.

On the road to Roncevalles

Yesterday, I  arrived in St Jean Pied de Port  and on the train I met Alan from Melbourne who is taking a pilgrimage where you don't have to carry your back pack and stay in hotels.  He is one of member of the Camino Forum that I also use.

The Gite I stayed in was very basic : one toilet for the whole place and I shared a room with 9 other people.  Fortunately, there was not aloud snorer in the lot.

I  went for dinner at The Cafe du Pais, and stuck up conversation with two gentlemen at the next table so I  didn't have to eat alone.  I had a chicken, mushroom and pasta dishes and a green salad with a glass of wine.

The big realization yesterday was that I was really there and that tomorrow I really had to walk 25 km with an 8 kg pack on my back.  I went through my pack and managed to jettison 2 kg.  It's more manageable now,  but still heavier than I like,  so made arrangements to have it transported.

Time to get some sleep. 

Jet Lag, Sweet Jet Lag

It  is 0500 in the city of Pau, the capital  of  Bearn and I can't sleep. This is not where I meant to be: however,  what is travel without some adventure?  It all involved a train with malfunctioning  brakes, rerouting  and getting on the wrong train.  Nonetheless, here I am, and I am told these things happen for a reason.

The flight over was uneventful, except for making the acquaintance of a  woman named Denise and we solved the problems of the world in one flight.

The weather has been beautiful so far and the trip through the French countryside was gorgeous.  Everything seem to be tinged with a golden haze; though that may have been due in part to the dust on the windows and not just my poetic inclinations.

The aroma of baking crossient is wafting through the air right now and that is a good way to start the day.

After breakfast mm, crossients, a tiny baguette and cafe au lait (sorry, Dan, no peanut butter ) made my way via a funicular railway to the Gare Pau on the advice of a very helpful cabbie from last night.  He spoke English, found me a nice place to stay and gave me instructions on  how to get to the train in the morning. He was worth every penny of the 5 Euro tip I gave him. 

So  here I am in Gare Bayonne, and the place is awash in pilgrims, all waiting for the next train to St.Jean.  Since France has had more than its share of terror attacks,  the military has a definite visible presence in the airport and larger train stations.   This is not one of them, just pilgrims,  pilgrims  and yet more pilgrims.

There have been on and off showers outside, I hope they let up.