Saturday, 7 October 2017

Still in Burgos about to set off on my sight seeing.



October 5, 2017

Still in Burgos about to set off on my sight seeing. 

I hope you are feeling better soon.  In the meantime take a cold pill, have some soup, and rest lots, preferably with a therapeutic kitty.

My compadres set off earlier this morning locked the door and turned in the key.  The door unlike other doors had no way to unlock from the inside so I had to use my mobile to call the hotel to let me out.  I told them that I felt very safe in their hotel and we both got a laugh out of it.  That is my first adventure so far today.5

I am off to drop off my laundry and off to the museums and Cathedral.
 Photos:
WOW, we have some great photos. I'll do my best to caption them. I may have to spread them out over several days. I'm

not sure if Leslie is going to do an 'Album in the Cloud' or not.
Oct 4 - Burgos most iconic son El Cyd - Local Hero? or are there darker sides to this icon?
Oct 5 - Cathedral with  ornate additions - These elaborate cathedrals dot the length of the Camino.
Oct 5 - Seen enough of Cathedral Burgos yet? - Another view of the Burgos Cathedra.
Across the Meseta Days 1 & 2 - Leslie's proposed route for the next couple of days.




Friday, 6 October 2017

Still in Burgos about to set off on my sight seeing.



October 4, 2017
Still in Burgos about to set off on my sight seeing. 

I hope you are feeling better soon.  In the meantime take a cold pill, have some soup, and rest lots, preferably with a therapeutic kitty.

My compadres set off earlier this morning locked the door and turned in the key.  The door unlike other doors had no way to unlock from the inside so I had to use my mobile to call the hotel to let me out.  I told them that I felt very safe in their hotel and we both got a laugh out of it.  That is my first adventure so far today.5

I am off to drop off my laundry and off to the museums and Cathedral
Burgos most iconic son El Cyd - Local Hero? or are there darker sides to this icon?
Cathedral with  ornate additions - These elaborate cathedrals dot the length of the Camino.
Seen enough of Cathedral Burgos yet? - Another view of the Burgos Cathedra.
Burgos most iconic son El Cyd - Local Hero? or are there darker sides to this icon?
Cathedral with  ornate additions - These elaborate cathedrals dot the length of the Camino.
Seen enough of Cathedral Burgos yet? - Another view of the Burgos Cathedra.
Across the Meseta - If you check the white section on the left, you will see the 'flat section, which is the Meseta, before there is more rough terrain as you approach Santiago de Comostela.
Photos
Crosses on Fence Along the Camino - Sep 27
Abandon Boots - Sept 26
Only 616 kms to go - Sept 26





Thursday, 5 October 2017


October 3, 2017

Meanwhile back Burgos

Leslie's forgettable night in Atapuerta precluded a blog entry on October 2nd. That does not mean that there were no photos.

Here I am in Burgos after a forgettable night in Atapuerta, one of the places that could be said "I spent a week there one night."  I think I will take a day off tomorrow to do some sightseeing.  I want to see the museum of Human Evolution and the Cathedral.

Most of us walked the first 10km and caught the bus for the last 10km into Burgos.  That trip was mostly made up of industrial park and car dealerships.  Someone said that it was broken up by the sighting of a McDonald's.  I must have missed that.

After Burgos begins the Meseta; a long strip that has its own challenges and I expect that boredom will be one of them.  I also expect that this will be the stretch my solar recharger will come into its own. 

It is after 6pm and Back  home it would be supper time or later.  Things are different in Spain, where, for the most part, the last meal of the day doesn't start until 9 pm or later. An exception is generally made in areas that cater to  hungry pilgrims who have to start early in the day.  Sunrise this morning was 8:16,  so those who want to start waaaaay early have to walk in the dark.

Anyway,  that's all for now, my Bear.   Love you lots.
Photos:
Early Morning on the Trail - Oct 3
How's this for eating out - Oct 1
Viana serves stacked deer - Sept 25
A Slingshot on the Road - Oct 2





Wednesday, 4 October 2017

Villafranca Montes de Oca - Encounter with El Gato

October 1, 2017

Villafranca Montes de Oca - Encounter with El Gato
Got my laundry done yesterday and visited the church of the miraculous chickens along with the museum.   I took the bus a short distance and here I am.

The next stop after this is a 12km distance  200m climb to st. Juan de Ortega where the monks historically served garlic soup to the pilgrims; a tradition that carries on.  Apparently, sharing quarters with a bunch of pilgrims who have also dined on garlic soup is a unique experience.  How far away the next albergue happens to be will be the deciding factor on whether I will share it. 

I ran into Mike from New Zealand today on the bus.  He was going all the way to Burgos. His motivation for this trip seems to be beer.  He wishes that he did a little more preparation for this trip than he did. 

I also reconnected with my American chums, we lost track outside of Logrono.   They say they missed me because I keep pointing out things the would otherwise miss, like the miraculous chickens.  And they try things that they would not otherwise try.  Today it was Sangria. They blanched a bit when I told them I had beef cheeks braised in red wine for supper last night. The meat was very tender and much the same texture as beef shank.  

I also ran into some people that I met a week ago.  One of them had been suffering from a blister and I was able to offer a compeed.   It worked wonderfully for her and expressed her thanks again.  It was nice the able to do some one a good turn.  

I still have my solar recharger. , but have not had any chance to use it.

No, I have not run into creepy crawlies.  The albergues are generally spotless; but that would not matter with "chinchoes" as they are hitchhikers.  They catch a ride on anything they can and have even infested places like public libraries and the Kennedy Center all since people stopped using DDT.

I miss you my Bear and I was able to get a little kitty fix from an obliging black kitty who was napping in a log.  He graciously allowed me to rub his belly and gifted me with a big purr.  I miss my favorite time of day: our bedtime cuddle. I miss solving the world's problems over breakfast.  Cafe con Leche just doesn't make up for that. 

About to head down for supper. 


Monday, 2 October 2017

Santo Domingo in the morning - A less taxing Day


September 30, 2017

Santo Domingo in the morning
It was a relatively short walk from Cireuna - only about 7 km or so and really, to be honest,  if there was a town that I would vote as the place to take the bus by,  Cireuna would surely be in the top three.  For the reasons mentioned yesterday,  it was one of the most dismal places I've seen;  the owners of the albergue were wonderful, but the whole town is a barren blight.

I am here in a lavenderia( laundromat ) near the albergue where I am staying.   The albergue does not have a dryer and today, unlike yesterday is not a good day being cool and cloudy.  The albergue is huge and has a kitchen and vending machines.  Among other things, these vending machines offer such things as tiny vials of Virgin olive oil,  dry pasta, stuffed green olives and I think I saw tomato sauce.  This place does not offer meals however a trip to the vending machine or the super Mercado and you won't starve.  Either that or a visit to one of the many bars in the neighborhood will give you the "menu del dia"  which entails  a choice of 1 of 5 first courses, 1 of at least 4 2nd courses with dessert and wine or water thrown in for €12 or so. 

After my clothes have dried I plan to make a visit to the Cathedral to visit the famous  chickens: the story behind this is that a family from Cologne was on pilgrimage to Santiago.  While here in Santo Domingo the son of the family turned down the sinful advances of a local girl who, out of spite, hid a silver goblet in his baggage.  He was summarily hanged  and his sorrowing parents continued their journey.  While in Santiago,  the parents received a revelation that their son was still alive despite being hanged, and still on the gallows.   They rushed back to Santo Domingo and crashed in on the
magistrate who was enjoying a yummy chicken dinner.  He heard their tale and pronounced that their son was no more alive than the chicken on his plate.  Whereupon the chicken rose up, squawking and fluttered to the rafters.  The son was cut down (he must have been pretty ripe by then) and everyone lived happily ever after.  Apparently, the descendants of the chicken live in the Cathedral and if they crow at you while you visit it's good luck.
Top Photo goes back to Sept. 27th - just a great vista.
The pictures below are from my tour of the cathedral at Santo Domingo




Cireuna - a not so inspiring spot



September 29, 2017
Cireuna
It was a long day from the far outskirts of Najera to this place:  it tried to be some sort of golf resort but the whole idea fell through.  Block after block of empty never occupied apartments and sterile condos stretch out in all directions.

If it weren't for the little business the Camino brings in it would disappear entirely.  I didn't get here until 6:30.  Again,  the guide books estimation of distance seems based in another dimension.

Tomorrow will be a short day to Santo Domingo;   I want to do laundry and visit the Cathedral where a miracle involving chickens allegedly took place.  I am going to get some much needed sleep now.

Missing you and the kitties lots.
Part of the Viaduct is the first photo
Next is the trail ahead, as seen by me
Below id a private spot to stop and refresh yourself along the way
One of mayy signs, this one announcing only 582km to go!




Sunday, 1 October 2017

The "j" is silent in Najera with a short stop in Ventosa


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September 28, 2017
The "j" is silent in Najera with a short stop in Ventosa

11 am early lunch or late 2nd breakfast in the only place between Navarrete and Najera.  The grapes are being harvested and the day is warm and sunny.

  I am having "insalata mixta"  which includes tomato, corn, lettuce (sigh, iceberg ) as well as tuna and hard cooked egg.  For dressing they bring out oil and red wine vinegar. 

 I am treated to the sight of a fellow pilgrim doctoring her blisters;  one grows used to these sights.

Ok,  I  made it to my accommodations by 3pm on the nose.  I splurged a bit by staying in a hostal (more like a motel) rather than  an albergue tonight,  but I  have my own room, shower and fresh towels.  Luxury!

Walking without the backpack really made a difference in my speed so I don't think I am going to turn up my nose at anyone who chooses to use that service.  It certainly makes a days walking more pleasant.   Though there are some who think that using a service of this sort detracts from "The True Pilgrim Experience".

Regarding water: a lot depends on the heat of the day and difficulty of the trail.  Yes, water is heavy but it decreases pretty quickly.  Every town has at least one fountain where you can refill.  Now this is good once you get out of the pyrenees and the towns are close together.  Once on the Meseta, that will.be different.   I carry 2 - 750 ml bottles and where towns, cafes and fountains are close, I only fill one. 

I have seen lots of people with the hydration pouches and they are convenient because you don't always have to reach for your bottle on your pack.  However,  if you run dry; you have to take off your pack, take the pouch out, refill it, manoeuvre it back into your backpack.  YMMV, but the process is a tad complicated to me.

My Lions patch has gone by the by:  those sticky tapes  did not hold either it or my hem well.  Should have used the glue, live and learn.

Am trying to get more pictures to you.