AHhhhhhh - The morning after the morning after in Santiago

October 30, 2017
AHhhhhhh
Towels, my own bathroom     and a certificate.  I'm happy.  And I am not at the mercy of that taxi driver.

The morning after the morning after in Santiago
In every account of the video accounts of people walking the Camino the pilgrims always through a short tunnel and there is always this same bagpiper playing.   As soon as I heard the bagpipes I knew I had finally made it.
I also found that it was almost impossible to walk across the square without coming across some one (and probably several people ) that you have met somewhere on the journey.
The square was full of people, some where dancing, others singing and some just lying on the cobblestones propped up against their backpacks looking up at the Cathedral.
We got our certificates and I finally mailed the postcards that had been riding around in my backpack since Pamplona.
Spain is a late night country.  It really doesn't even start to come alive until 9pm and things really don't rock and roll until midnight. MeanwhIle I was tucked into my albergue on Saturday night sleeping off a long day, a great dinner and a generous amount of Sangria when I was woken by what sounded like a football riot in the streets.  This did not let up for four hous and, apparently this is a typical Saturday night in the old city.
And I thought I was a night owl.
Now nighty night for me.
Love you.

Photos:
Oct. 30 - Three Amigos say Goodbye in Finesterre - This is a time of mixed emotions for our trio. They have made it to the end of their journey together. They have shared the joy of comradeship, the trials of the trail, the pains collected along the way, the feeling of accomplishment, then they must say goodbye and return to their 'normal lives'.
Oct. 28 - Yo sure enough - a Spanish Piper - Enough said, Bagpipes are not my favourite.
Oct 30 - Leslie Made it to Fisterra - Hardly looking bedraggled, but relieved, in a way, that she does not have to pack up and walk another twenty kilometers today.
Oct. 30 - The Sun Sets ovet the Atlantic from Finesterre - What a way to say good bye to Leslie as she heads back to our busy world of buses, trains, and planes on her way back home to provide pats and scruffs to her kitties. Good luck Leslie and "Thanks for sharing your adventure with all of us."

Cathedral Trio

October 29, 2017
Cathedral Trio
The three Amigos at the pilgrim mass
Leslie, John, and Steven take a day to tour Santiago de Compestella.
Photos:
Oct. 29 - Cathedral Trio - The 'Three Amigos' dit it and are looking proud of their accomplishment.
Oct. 29 - Inside the Cathedral de Santiago - A spectacular place, Lots of photos and videos are available 'on line'
Oct 28 - 330 meters to go - Can I Make it - "I'm so tired, but do I want this to ber over yet?"
Oct. 28 - Leslie munching her Tacco and some wine - OH, YA, This is the Life. good food, good wine, and great company.
Week 6 - The last 'leg' of this marvelous journey across the North of Spain. What can I say, that hasn't already been said?

 

Slouching into Santiago - I DID IT!

October 28, 2017
Slouching into Santiago - I DID IT!
Well, we did it.  Santiago at last - 800 km/500 miles whatever way you want to look at it.  And there are pictures with more to come: the one you may be interested in now show me munching on my sangria.
Last night the girls in my albergue were dicussing tattoos and the ones the planned on getting upon completion of their journey.  Somehow the topic of a  €5 tattoo came up.  My contribution to the discussion was if any artist was offering a €5 tattoo,  he was likely known as Hepatitis Harry.
We went to the Pilgrim office and got our certificates, then to our respective albergues and after that, supper with a lot of Sangria.
Now, I am tired, more than a little overwhelmed and slightly awash in sangria and now it is time for bed.
Love you my Snuggy

Photos:
Oct. 28 - I REALLY DID IT! - Let's hear it for Leslie, She really did it.
Oct. 28 - On to Finesteta - Not Today - Leslie is taking a day off tomorrow and taking the bus to Finestera
Oct. 28 - Leslie in Santiago - Proud of her Accomplishment - Looking really Good Girl.
Oct. 28 - Cathedral under Construction - It really is a beautiful cathedral, once the renovations are done, it will be even better.
Day 42 Santiago de Compestela - WOW I'm really here AND it Feels just GREAT!
Progress Week 6 - Wow What an accomplishment to walk all that way. Oh yes Leslie walked 8.5 km uphill and another 8.5 km down hill on this trek.

 

 

 

The Penultimate Day - O Pedrouzo

October 27, 2017
The Penultimate Day - O Pedrouzo
Well here it is:  the last day before the last day. And I admit it:  I am tired and I am ready to come home.  I want a long soak in the tub.  I want fresh veggies and the only time I want to see iceberg lettuce again is in a Taco. I want to pet my kitties and scruff my Bear,  not necessarily in that order.

I have at least one pair of socks that I can burn (or safely deposit in a trash bin) at Finnestera.  The wine has been good and so has the Spanish beer but I want a rum. 

Also, this particular town has the last hill before Santiago and by tradition the first one of your group to reach the bottom is called "king".  There is no prize, just bragging rights.

This is one of the places that I will be passing through tomorrow : Lavacolla - the origin of the name is one of the most widely debated on the Camino. The possible origins range from "The field at the bottom of the hill"  to the more prosaic "scrub your scrotum" in difference to the practice of pilgrims bathing in the river before entering the Cathedral.

Then into the city and I am booked into an albergue called The Last Stamp.

At the beginning I truly did not know I would make the entire journey when full understanding of enormity of this undretaking really began to really sink in.  Now, at the end I wonder just how the heck I managed to do it.
Photos:
Sept. 15 - Were off the train now what do I do? - This is where the first doubts hit home, the enorminity of the task ahad, and the setting of the resolve; "I'm going to do this, damn it!"
Sept. 16 - Directions - Here is the first choice - It's up hill either way; Route #1 is a 1,400 meter climb up and route #2 is only 1,000 meters around, both take me over the Pyranese Mountains. Just how much of a masochist am I? hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm .........
Sept. 24 - Wine Fountain at Irache - Well, I can say that this oaisis makes rigors of the trip so far worthwhile. "Drink the wine of the country" they say, so I drank!
Sept. 25 - The path alongside the highway - Oh, such a long way left to go, but this is more like it ..... NO BLODY HILLS!!!!
Day 41 O Pedrouzo - Another Rough day for our intrepid traveler, but that is becoming 'Old Hat' to this rugged adventurer. But it feels sssssooooooo gooooooood when it is time to stop and taste the wine and have a shower - not necessarily in that order!

Arzua

October 26, 2017
Arzua
After a relatively short day I am in Arzua.  I am getting tired of hills but I take comfort  in knowing that we are about 40 km from Santiago.  Tomorrow is the penultimate day on the road.  We plan on going to Finnestera but we will do it by bus.
The pictures yesterday: you are right, one of them was dinner, a local speciality called "pulpo"  or octopus.  It is served boiled with a shot of paprika and a drizzle of olive oil on a wooden plate and eaten with large toothpicks.  Now I can say I have eaten octopus.  The texture is a bit on the rubbery side.  And I believe that the flavour could been improved by a couple of squeezes of fresh lemon.  That said I think I would have preferred a lobster roll.  But maybe I am just homesick.
The little purple flowers that I have been trying to photograph are autumn crocuses:  the pistels of which are the source of saffron.
I have no idea what the wicker thing is but it looked interesting.
The weather has been pleasant and looks Google for the next several days.  So batten down the hatches and snuggle the kitties.
Love you much my Bear
Photos:
Oct. 26 - Supper complete with wine glass - This looks more like a pasta and beef mixture, some lemon, and the stem of a wine glass.
Oct. 23 - This looks like a Crocus - Yes, this is a 'Fall Crocus'. Go figure. It takes a lot of these plants to provide a gram of Safron.
Oct. 18 - Lesslie posing with the Appostil La Portella - No recent pictures of our 'Traveler', so I chose this one.
Sept. 16 - This is more like it - Then this is another aspect of this journey.
Day 40 Arzua - Note the graph of the terrain on the left - 277 meters up hill and 337 meters down hill in this 14km walk. This is tough on Leslie.

 

 

In Palas de Rei

October 24, 2017
In Palas de Rei
That tumble I took yesterday had a few aftereffects : the aches and twinges did not make  a good night's sleep so my walking was cut somewhat short in favour of speedier transportation and an afternoon nap;  my right side is kind of tender, but nothing that I can't work with.
It could have been worse:  I might have wound up face down in a cow patty:  cows seem to outnumber people in this part of Galacia and they are constantly being moved from barn to pasture to barn  accompanied by large friendly herd dogs.  The cows are all over the roads and so are their patties.
Sarria being the last 100 km, is the last place you can start in order to get the official certificate in Santiago.   As such we pilgrims were joined by group after group of school children from Madrid, walking the camino with their teachers.  Also, I heard mariachi music coming up from behind.  It was a bunch of Mexican men complete with their priest.
Today I am in am albergue that is much like a Japanese capsule hotel, or a Pullman sleeper car.  Each bunk is a tiny room with curtains, reading light, charger for electronics and a shelf.  I don't imagine that it is for the claustrophobic but it meets my needs.  The curtains give a bit of privacy one usually does not have in a dormitory.
Anyway I need to grab a shower.   How did the 200 night go?
Love you and miss you.  Counting the days till I come home to my Bear.
Photos:
Oct. 23 - The Lonely Burrow - Doesn't look like the source of the cow patties to me.
Oct. 24 - What do you think this is? - Think in terms of sardines. The alternative is open beds in the gym. Which would you choose?
Oct. 22 - Welcome to Sarria - 'The Magic Point', It is 100kms to Santiago de Compestella. This where
many start their journey  along 'The Way'.
Day 38 Palas de Rei - A particularly difficult day following a fitful night dealing with the aftermath of her fall during the day. None the less, 'The March Must Go On'.

 

 

Just a short note today

October 23, 2017
Just a short note today
Portomarin was the stop today and I made it.  Long day and too tired even to forage for food. Tomorrow I am setting out for Palas de Rei so that will be a long haul too. Smooches my Bear.  I miss you so much.
Photos:
Oct. 22 - A great shot of the Countryside - This is a view of the type of terrain that Leslie has to negotiate.
Oct. 22 - Here is Julietta - It is hard to believe that this lovely little creature snores!
Oct. 22 - Now heres a Fancy Sign Post - Oh ya, it's hard to miss this sign of the Way.
Day 36 Sarria - This is NOT the Meseta. Leslie finds it easier when there are not many ups and downs during the day.
Day 37 Potomarin - This is the track of 'the rough day' for Leslie. The push is on to make it to Santiago de Compestella. I missed a day somewhere.

 

Triacastela yesterday Sarria Tonight

October 22, 2017
Triacastela yesterday Sarria Tonight
Well here I am; about to start my last 100 km of this trip. Yes, I admit it, there were days, especially mornings, when my thoughts were "why am I doing this to myself? "
What do I miss the most besides my Snuggy and the kitties?  Towels would have to be close to the top,  nice, warm dry thick towels.  The microfiber towel that I have does the job, but after a shower there is nothing beats a good towel.  
What is the most useful thing outside of clothing?  That is a toss up between the Spanish sim card and the dry bag that Melissa,  Steve and the boys gave me:  it stores whatever clothing that I am not wearing in one convenient spot in my back pack.
Not all albergues are created equally :  the one I was in last night was clean warm and had a lot of hot water.  All of which are good things  but the place had the personality of prison, granted a minimum security prison; but a prison none the less.
This place is much more homelike.  I have taken a picture of the official dog - her name is Julietta and she snores.  She reminds me a bit of Dan on the admittedly rare occasions he snores.   I wanted her to sleep in my room (yes this is how home sick I am getting )  but I was told that my roommates would likely toss me out.
Today was a glorious walk.; the temp was just right. But there were a lot of hills.
Anyway, I must scoot for now.
Love you my Snuggy
Photos:
Oct. 21 - 142 kms to go and a Vista - Note that the scenery and the track have changed dramatically.
Oct. 18 - Homage to the grape - here is a statue to the noble grape., Before the Meseta.
Oct. 7   - Not exactly the Weeping Wall, but ...... a special space.
Day 35 Triacastela - A short day today, time to build a good supper, Atmosphere though is another matter.
Progress Week 5 - It is phenomenal to see just how far Leslie has traveled since the start of her journey on the Way. I find it difficult to realise that there is less than a fortnight left in this journey for our intrepid traveler!

chestnuts

October 21, 2017
Hello my Snuggy,
During my walk yesterday I picked up some chestnuts on the road.  They are sweet ones not horse chestnuts like in Middleton.
Love you
Photos:
Oct. 20 - Chestnuts - A photo of some of the Chestnuts collected along the Way.
Oct. 19 - Camino Pasport Page 2 - More of the stellos collected aanong the Way.
Oct. 20 - 158827 meters to go - These markers become more relevant as Leslie gets nearer to Santiago de Compestella.
Day 35 Triacastela - A short day of 10km. It was a steady and gental incline down 600 meters today.
Week 5 - Leslie's Progress out of the Meseta, across the sierra de ancares mountains, and onward toward the Atlantic coast of Spain.

Loping to Las Herreras

October 20, 2017
Loping to Las Herreras
It's a cool morning here in Villafranca de la Bierzo and misty.  The Italians are starting their day with their customary shot of grappa and then there are the rest of us.
Tummy is a little sore today.  I think it may have been the tuna melt I made last night:  all the tuna here seems to be packed in oil and I am used to water,  it may have been a bit disagreeable.
Just a random concern but I wonder just how we are going to run the Polar Dip and Light Up this year.  I guess I am not totally occupied by spiritual matters while striding along the Camino.
I splurged a bit last night and got my own room in a wonderful pension. I is a nifty place that used to be an old butter factory.  I was glorious, but I missed my Snuggy.

 

 

 

Meanwhile the next day in FonFria.   We are over the top: O Cebreiro is behind us and for the most part, the climbing is behind us.
FonFria is a happening place; home to about 40 people whose livelihood, other than servicing the Camino, is making cheese.  Say it with me folks "Blessed are the cheesemakers".  And the cheese is actually really good;  it is a fresh cow's milk cheese, from contented cows, served spread with local honey.  Yum!
A lot of small villages on the Camino are populated by less than 100 people.
I have take a couple of pictures of my pilgrim credential with all the sellos. (Stamps )  This is an import part of the Camino : one must collect these stamps along the way to prove that your little and by now somewhat smelly, pilgrim feet have actually crossed the threshold of the establishment and thereby actually have completed the Camino.   Now they are really picky about the last 100 km (200, if you cycle or ride a horse) in that distance it is advised to collect 2 sellos a day.  This is not difficult as not only do albergues have stamps, so do bars, museums, churches, little way stations and other local attractions. 
Enough for now,  smooches.
Photos:
Oct. 20 - definitely NOT the Meseta - this is the morning view coming out of Villafranca de la Bierzo.
Oct. 19 - Camino Pasport Page 1 - This is Leslie's vital document to prove that she has traveled the Way, and makes a great memento!
Oct. 19 - 199 kms to go - There are reminders of the Pilgrim's progress all along the Way
Oct. 19 - Leslie posing with the Appostil La Portella 2 - Our intrepid traveled does not look harried or any worse for wear here.
Day 34 FonFria - An up hill trek, all day - This is the last 'hump'. It is a steady drop of 1,000 meters over 138 kms to Santiago.
Today will be another partly cloudy day with light winds. The temperatures drop to 3to 5C before rising to 12 to 15C for the daytime high; nice walking weather.

Traveling with Americans

October 18, 2017
Traveling with Americans
I suppose that it is time to introduce my traveling companions: John and Mark, both from Dallas, of Latino extraction  and they are in laws.   In other words, John's son is married to Mark's daughter and they have 3 mutual grandchildren together. 
At various times during this expedition I have come to wonder if it is my role here to broaden their horizons somewhat. Now I am not entirely sure that this is because they are men, Americans, city boys or a combination of all three. 
For example, one conversation ran thusly:  An albergue in which I was staying was getting their vegetables delivered from someone who actually grew them, and in reference to a veggie of heroic proportions the man was carrying in:
What is that?
Me looking up - a squash.
It can't be.  I've never seen a squash that big.
Me - you have never shopped outside of a supermarket, have you?
Well, no.
This precipitated a trip to the local market on market day where I introduced them to mammoth sized squash and zucchini; and tomatoes that were so dark that they were almost black.
It was a revelation to them both.  I have not yet gotten either of them to try Gazpacho soup.  The reason?  It's cold and soup is not supposed to be cold. Not even a spoonful would they try.
There are various other things such as the differences between Mexican tortillas and Spanish ones.  However it is the concept of siesta that I truly feel that they can't get their heads around.  Why would anyone knock off in the middle of the day for 2 or 3 hours when there is so much business to be done? Even after baking their respective brains out on the Meseta, the wisdom of taking a break during the hottest part of the day eluded them.  And all because the was money to be made hawking things to pilgrims.
It is also appropriate here to comment on one of the foibles I have found here in Spain:  as a country, Spain seems to have fallen in love with motion sensors.   Now I can understand this to a great part:  Spain is leading the way in renewable energy; wind turbines and solar panels abound therefore it does make sense that one should not waste energy when it is not necessary.  As I have followed my beloved partner in life from room to room turning off lights in empty bathrooms, overheads where they are not needed and so on , I  can see the wisdom.
Now that said there are times when the automatic turn off is just too quick.  For example,  there are times when in the smallest room in the house that the light turns off just too fast.  As I  am familiar enough with my own anatomy that over all it is not an issue.  Except for the times when the toilet paper is just out of reach.  I shall leave the rest to your imagination.
Will update you about tomorrow when I figure out where I will be.
Love you my Bear
Photos:
Oct. 17 - Black Cat Alley - On the way to the local market Leslie takes time to check out the local feline population, which is all black, in this case. If one black cat crossing your path is 'bad luck'; What happens when 4 black cats cross your path?
Oct. 17 - An enterprising soul catering to the Pilgrim traffic - It is interesting to note that some of these 'pit stops' are run by immigrants who cater to ethnic pilgrims who travel the Way.
Oct. 17 - In Homage to the grape. - Here is an interesting statue erected in honour of the noble grape. Wow, look at the size of that vine stock!
Day 32 Villafranka del Bierzo - This was an 18 km hike with the hillier terrain during the last third.