Santo Domingo in the morning - A less taxing Day

September 30, 2017

Santo Domingo in the morning
It was a relatively short walk from Cireuna - only about 7 km or so and really, to be honest,  if there was a town that I would vote as the place to take the bus by,  Cireuna would surely be in the top three.  For the reasons mentioned yesterday,  it was one of the most dismal places I've seen;  the owners of the albergue were wonderful, but the whole town is a barren blight.

I am here in a lavenderia( laundromat ) near the albergue where I am staying.   The albergue does not have a dryer and today, unlike yesterday is not a good day being cool and cloudy.  The albergue is huge and has a kitchen and vending machines.  Among other things, these vending machines offer such things as tiny vials of Virgin olive oil,  dry pasta, stuffed green olives and I think I saw tomato sauce.  This place does not offer meals however a trip to the vending machine or the super Mercado and you won't starve.  Either that or a visit to one of the many bars in the neighborhood will give you the "menu del dia"  which entails  a choice of 1 of 5 first courses, 1 of at least 4 2nd courses with dessert and wine or water thrown in for €12 or so. 

After my clothes have dried I plan to make a visit to the Cathedral to visit the famous  chickens: the story behind this is that a family from Cologne was on pilgrimage to Santiago.  While here in Santo Domingo the son of the family turned down the sinful advances of a local girl who, out of spite, hid a silver goblet in his baggage.  He was summarily hanged  and his sorrowing parents continued their journey.  While in Santiago,  the parents received a revelation that their son was still alive despite being hanged, and still on the gallows.   They rushed back to Santo Domingo and crashed in on the
magistrate who was enjoying a yummy chicken dinner.  He heard their tale and pronounced that their son was no more alive than the chicken on his plate.  Whereupon the chicken rose up, squawking and fluttered to the rafters.  The son was cut down (he must have been pretty ripe by then) and everyone lived happily ever after.  Apparently, the descendants of the chicken live in the Cathedral and if they crow at you while you visit it's good luck.
Top Photo goes back to Sept. 27th - just a great vista.
The pictures below are from my tour of the cathedral at Santo Domingo

Cireuna - a not so inspiring spot

September 29, 2017
Cireuna
It was a long day from the far outskirts of Najera to this place:  it tried to be some sort of golf resort but the whole idea fell through.  Block after block of empty never occupied apartments and sterile condos stretch out in all directions.

If it weren't for the little business the Camino brings in it would disappear entirely.  I didn't get here until 6:30.  Again,  the guide books estimation of distance seems based in another dimension.

Tomorrow will be a short day to Santo Domingo;   I want to do laundry and visit the Cathedral where a miracle involving chickens allegedly took place.  I am going to get some much needed sleep now.

Missing you and the kitties lots.
Part of the Viaduct is the first photo
Next is the trail ahead, as seen by me
Below id a private spot to stop and refresh yourself along the way
One of mayy signs, this one announcing only 582km to go!

The "j" is silent in Najera with a short stop in Ventosa

.

September 28, 2017
The "j" is silent in Najera with a short stop in Ventosa

11 am early lunch or late 2nd breakfast in the only place between Navarrete and Najera.  The grapes are being harvested and the day is warm and sunny.

  I am having "insalata mixta"  which includes tomato, corn, lettuce (sigh, iceberg ) as well as tuna and hard cooked egg.  For dressing they bring out oil and red wine vinegar. 

 I am treated to the sight of a fellow pilgrim doctoring her blisters;  one grows used to these sights.

Ok,  I  made it to my accommodations by 3pm on the nose.  I splurged a bit by staying in a hostal (more like a motel) rather than  an albergue tonight,  but I  have my own room, shower and fresh towels.  Luxury!

Walking without the backpack really made a difference in my speed so I don't think I am going to turn up my nose at anyone who chooses to use that service.  It certainly makes a days walking more pleasant.   Though there are some who think that using a service of this sort detracts from "The True Pilgrim Experience".

Regarding water: a lot depends on the heat of the day and difficulty of the trail.  Yes, water is heavy but it decreases pretty quickly.  Every town has at least one fountain where you can refill.  Now this is good once you get out of the pyrenees and the towns are close together.  Once on the Meseta, that will.be different.   I carry 2 - 750 ml bottles and where towns, cafes and fountains are close, I only fill one. 

I have seen lots of people with the hydration pouches and they are convenient because you don't always have to reach for your bottle on your pack.  However,  if you run dry; you have to take off your pack, take the pouch out, refill it, manoeuvre it back into your backpack.  YMMV, but the process is a tad complicated to me.

My Lions patch has gone by the by:  those sticky tapes  did not hold either it or my hem well.  Should have used the glue, live and learn.

Am trying to get more pictures to you.

Strolling to Navarrete - reprieve from withdrawl

September 27, 2017Strolling to Navarrete
My day started in Logrono, after a evening of sharing beer with Mike from New Zealand :  he tore up his feet pretty bad walking in sneakers,  even his blisters have blisters.  He is taking a couple of days to recuperate before he gets back to his 30 km per day.  Oy!

So this morning stared with the usual cafe con Leche and a tostada con Tomato.  Mid morning  break is on the picturesque banks of a resovoir with a cold Aquarius - a hydration beverage - not quite a sports drink- that is quite pleasant.  Not at all like those sports drinks that taste like I imagine camel.urine tastes like.

My American companions are out there somewhere and I have no doubt our paths will cross again.   I have arrived in Navarrete and will set out tomorrow for Najera, about 17 km away, or so the guide book claims.  I have made arrangements to have My background sent on ahead so we will see how that works out.  It seems to be an increasingle popular option here on the Camino for people who really want to enjoy the walk. 

And today for the first time,  I got to pet some kitties, I have been going through serious withdrawal.

I am really enjoying this outdoor cafe part of Spain.  I am going to pick up some food for the road tomorrow so I  can picnic on the way. 

After a supper of pasta with pesto and salad, another early night.

Logrono and a typical day

September 26, 2017
Logrono
Yesterday in Viana I managed to score a pair of sandals and another tshirt.  I met up with some Irish lads about my age on their annual walking trio on the Camino. I have to admit I took the bus yesterday and I am not sorry that I missed climbing both in and out of the ravine they call "mule killer ".   While in Viana, I did some sightseeing and visited the tomb of Caesre Borgia.  He was originally buried in the church but it was desiccated sometime in the 1600s so they buried him outside.

It was a 12km walk to Logrono this morning over easy terrain and I did not use my trekking poles.  I was somewhat faster.  Hmmmmmm.

The typical day for me begins around 6ish am when people start rustling.  They try to be quiet, but it doesn't help much.  Then it is breakfast :  usually bread, sometimes toast, and jam and coffee.  I have learned not to indulge in the fresh orange juice.

Then,  it's off like a herd of turtles.  Now if circumstances pemit,  about an hour or so later we stop for coffee con Leche and a snack (second breakfast) then start off again. 

Depending on the distance you want to cover,  you may or may stop for lunch or you can pick up sandwich makings from a Mercado for a picnic. Then you finally roll into the albergue and shower,  do any laundry you may have then go for a glass of wine.

If there is a communal supper we usually take part and if not we go hunting for a cafe.  The  pilgrims menu usually offers 3 courses : soup, salad or pasta and a main course: chicken, fish or pork and a light dessert. And wine is included, this whole repast is usually 8 - 11 euro.
 After that, usually bed time.  And no one has trouble falling asleep .

I miss you and the kitties, my Snuggy.  I suspect when I get home the kitties may be upset at having to share the bed with me again. 

Meanwhile back at the John

September 24, 2017
Meanwhile back at the John
Ah....Cafe con Leche in the morning.  Life is good surrounded by Pilgrims and backpacks. It was easy walking this morning, granted it was downhill and almost sunrise when I started.

I had supper last night with three blokes from Manchester:  a lawyer, Ceo type and one other.  All of them at various crossroads of their lives.  I did learn something interesting though:  most people if they quit the Camino (outside of injury) do so within the first 3 days.  Some don't even start and I can see that because when I got to St.Jean and the enormity of what I was attempting to do really started to sink in, it was a scary moment.

With regards to bathrooms:  overall it has not been a problem to me.  One thing is that no matter how much I hydrate - and I do, a lot - I don't seem to need to pee much.  As for the other,  as long as I avoid the beautiful and delicious freshly squeezed orange juice, prevelant with every breakfast, I will not be caught short.

As for the bathrooms, the one in the cafes and bars along the way have been clean but it is wise to carry along a small supply of toilet paper just in case.

Slouching Towards Santiago,

I am a turtle

September 23, 2017
I am a turtle
I have to come to terms with the fact that I am just not the swiftest walker in the world.  It was a hot day and I only made 12km.  That's ok, but next week I hope to do better I understood it takes that long to get my stride.  My goal is 17 km per day and thus far I haven't done too badly.  Oh, by the way, the meseta i's about 100 km in length, not 250.

On the physical front, I  am doing ok: my one blister is healing nicely.  And after a week in hiking boots my feet are like a baby 's bottom.  My knees hurt faintly after a couple of those murderous descents, but always better in the morning.

I  am so glad to get your updates,  I look forward to them every day.  And I really miss snuggling you.

Do you think you can update my blog with the letters I have been sending you? It seems that I have time to write you or update but not both.